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Summary

Substantial house, built in the early 15th Century by Sir John Cornwall, consisting of 4 ranges round a central courtyard, with 2 further ranges of outbuildings round 2 sides of outer court. The property passed to Henry VIII in 1524 and was the residence of Katherine of Aragon during her divorce proceedings. By 1555 the house was reported to be in a state of decay, a ruin by 1605, and demolished by 1649. The site of the castle is now marked by the Katherine Cross.

Full Description

<1> 1937, Bedfordshire Regional Planning Authority Report, p. 188 (Unpublished document). SBD10783.

The castle, built in 11th century on a site commanding extensive views, is now marked by a stone cross.

<2> Angela Simco, Comments, Note on plans in Hatfield Collection and Courtauld Institute (Observations and Comments). SBD10509.

DoE Drawing Office referred in telephone conversation to plans of Ampthill Castle in Hatfield Collection. CRO: Z49/24-28 - 5 photos of plans of Ampthill Castle purchased from the Courtauld Institute of Art. (Courtauld Institute negative numbers - B64/718-721) - [see Ref. 14]

<3> Bedfordshire Magazine, Vol. 5, no. 37, Summer 1956, pp. 185-189 (Serial). SBD10543.

"The Builder of Ampthill Castle". 3-page biography of Sir John Cornewall, later Lord Fanhope. Knight of the Garter and brother-in-law to Henry IV.

<4> Bedfordshire Magazine, Vol. 13, no. 103, pp. 315-318 (Serial). SBD10543.

"The building of Ampthill Park", 3-page article largely focussed on the Katherine Cross.

<5> Ordnance Survey, Ordnance Survey Archaeology Record Cards, OS: TL 03 NW 3 (Unpublished document). SBD10879.

TL 026 383. Katherine's Cross; Ampthill Castle
(TL 02473839) Katherine's Cross (NAT)
On Site of (NAT)
Ampthill Castle (NR) (OS 6" 1960)

Sir John Cornwall, Lord of Ampthill manor built a castle in the early C15th. Later this became royal property and Henry VIII placed it at the disposal of Catherine of Aragon during the divorce proceedings. By the end of the 16th, century it had fallen into decay, and its site is now marked by a stone cross erected in 1770, standing on an octagonal base of three steps. It is decorated with the arms of Castille and Aragon as well as the royal arms. (VCH Vol III, 1912, p270)

Cross as described above, dated 1773. Poem carved on its side uses 'C' and not 'K' as the initial letter of the queen's name. (BHS 20-AUG-70)

<6> NMR document (Unpublished document). SBD11220.

Drawing of cross, dated 1835.

<7> William Page & H. Arthur Doubleday (Editors), 1912, Victoria County History Vol III, Bedfordshire, Vol. III, 1912, p. 270 (Bibliographic reference). SBD13982.

When Sir John Cornwall was lord of Ampthill Manor in the early part of the 15th century he built himself a 'faire castle' there out of the spoils of the French wars. The area of this castle was a square of about 220ft. In front was a large court 115ft by 120ft. Behind this were two very small ones, each 45ft square and between these was an oblong courtyard. Between the front and back courts the building had two small lateral projections, like the transepts of a church. In front were two square projecting towers, and round the building at irregular distances nine others, principally five-sided octagons. By the end of the century the castle had fallen into decay.

<8> Bedfordshire Magazine, Vol. 3, pp. 75-79 (Serial). SBD10543.

Ampthill was created a Royal Honour in 1542, but as time went on the King took little interest in the demesne, and the castle fell into decay.
Also an illustration of the castle as described by Leland (p.78).

<9> Bedfordshire Magazine, Vol. 10, p. 82 (Serial). SBD10543.

Letter from Horace Walpole to William Cole, June 22 1771: "Nothing remains of the castle, or any marks of residence but a very small bit of her [Katherine of Aragon] garden. I proposed to Lord Ossory to erect a cross to her memory on the spot and he will….." [See HER 14350]

<10> Andrew Underwood, 1976, Ampthill: A Goodly Heritage, pp. 9, 26 (Bibliographic reference). SBD10982.

When [Sir John Cornwall] returned [from the French campaign], he enclosed a park [at Ampthill] and built himself a castle, high on a hill overlooking the plain of Bedford.
Ampthill Castle has long since disappeared, but a 16th century writer tells of it 'standing stately on a hill with foure or five faire Towers of stone in the Inner Warde, beside the Basse-Court' (Leland, Itinerary), & a 19th century historian reports seeing some plans supposedly made early in the 17th century, which showed 'in front was a large court, 115 ft by 120; behind these were 2 very small ones, each 45ft sq; & between these was an oblong courtyard. Between the front & back courts, the building had 2 small lateral projections, like the transepts of a church. In front were 2 square projecting towers; & round the building, at irregular distances, were 9 others, projecting, of different shapes, but principally 5-sided segments of octagons' (J.D. Parry, Beds, p.72) (page 9)
In 1553, a survey found it 'sore decayed', with tiling, leading and glazing missing, roofs caving in, timber rotting, & stone walls on the point of collapse - a state of affairs advanced no doubt by the townsfolk whose frequent acts of trespass in Great Park were not limited to poaching (PRO: E 314/25): they found the castle an admirable quarry for building materials, and within 100 years it was said to have been totally demolished. (page 26)

<11> Camden, ed Gibson, Britannia, App p. 616 (Article in serial). SBD10813.

Ampthill has been noted for a Palace belonging to King Henry VIII, where Queen Catharine lived during the attempt of the Divorce, & from where she was cited to appear before the Commissioners at Dunstable.

<12> Gentleman's Magazine, Vol. 24, 1845/II, p. 473 (Article in serial). SBD10741.

Ampthill castle was a large polygonal pile, described by Parry, from a plan of Lord Ossory, as "5-sided segments of octagons."

<13> Hunting Surveys, 1974, Hunting Aerial Photos 1974 (Aerial Photograph). SBD10649.

6/2682: TL 024 383 Ampthill - possible location of Ampthill House
TL 023 384 Ampthill - Box marking W of Ampthill Castle site *
[*Scarp slope shows at TL 0242 3838]

<14> Bedfordshire & Luton Archives and Records Service Documents, BLARS: Various (Unpublished document). SBD10551.

Various drawings, of which there are copies in the County Record Office, need careful interpretation:
Z49/24-28, photographs of drawings in Courtauld Institute:-
24-25: Courtauld Neg B64/718 = 1st floor (N)
26: Courtauld Neg B64/720 = Ground floor (N)
27: Courtauld Neg B64/719 = 1st floor (S)
28: Courtauld Neg B64/721 = Ground floor (N)

(26 also labelled "Thorpe drawing")
[sketch outline attached]
These illustrations are those quoted in Underwood (Ref. (10)). Comparison with those below suggests they are proposals, not existing.

CRO: Z196/167/1-3: "Dyelines from Dept of Environment Ancient Monument Drawing Office, copied from plans in Hatfield Collection, (Ref. nos. not given)".
1- Ampthill Castle as existing, 15th-16th Century. [This equates approximately with the south court as shown on Z49, though only the outer half of the E & W wings are shown. The N wing is much more irregular; there appear to be northward extensions of the E & W wings, which run off the plan. Further E is another outer court (?stables) with buildings on N & E].

CRO: Z196/167/2-3 - 1606, ground & 1st floor proposals for rebuilding [Probably N range. Incorporates 2 courtyards, though not so regular as on Z49].

<15> Angela Simco, Comments (Observations and Comments). SBD10509.

Correspondence and annotated map concerning tree planting at site. 14/4/87.

<16> Council for British Archaeology, 1988, South Midlands Archaeology, Volume 18, Vol. 18, 1988, p. 7 (Serial). SBD14131.

The commemorative cross on the site of the 16th century buildings stands on a marked platform on the edge of the Greensand escarpment. This platform has been surveyed and the layout of the earthworks appears to fit closely the 16th century ground plan.

<17> Ampthill & District Archaeological & Local History Society, 2007, First Pseudo Sections through selected Area's Of The Ampthill Castle Site Using a TR/CIA Resistivity Meter (Archaeological Report). SBD12912.

No interpretation, just images from the survey.

<18> John Preston Neale, 1820-9, Views of the Seats of Noblemen and Gentlemen in England, Wales, Scotland and Ireland, Vol. VI, 1823, pp. 17-18 (Bibliographic reference). SBD12819.

Sir John Cornwall, Lord Fanhope, K.G., who married Elizabeth of Lancaster, Duchess of Exeter, sister to King Henry IV, held the several Manors of Ampthill, Milbroke, Houghton, Tingreth, Flitwick, and Pelling, all by the King's gift. He built a large House on this Estate, which, reverting to the crown, was granted by Edward IV to Edmund, Lord Grey, of Ruthin, afterwards created Earl of Kent. His grandson, Richard, third earl of Kent, having much wasted his Estate, this Mansion was made over to Henry VIII, whose Palace it then became. In the thirty-third year of his reign he erected the Manor into "The Honor of Ampthill," and in Leland's description, it is denominated the "Castelle" of Ampthill, in which Castle, Queen Catharine of Arragon resided during the time her divorce was in agitation, before Commissioners at Dunstable. ….. There exists a plan of this Castle ….. taken about the year 1619, soon after which it must have been pulled down.
On an eminence, the site of the ancient Castle, there now stands a Cross, erected at the instigation of the Earl of Orford.

<19> Angela Simco, Comments (Observations and Comments). SBD10509.

Annotated maps re. scheduling recommendations.

<20> Angela Simco, Comments, Ampthill Castle (Observations and Comments). SBD10509.

History: Ampthill Castle was built in the early 15th century by Sir John Cornwall, later Lord Fanhope. He had married Elizabeth, the sister of Henry IV, and wanted a residence "meet for his Royal spouse". It came into the hands of Henry VIII in 1524, and Katherine of Aragon lived there during the divorce proceedings of 1533.
Account books refer to many repairs from 1534 onwards; in 1555 it was falling into decay, and mention is made (among other things) of the inner court…the battlements of stone…the great kitchen….the barn in the outer court…" In 1567 there were "charges for taking down some parts of the house" and Richard Rowlands and John Vincents were paid for "drawing and making a platte of the house." This plan has survived, and has been transcribed and published in 'The History of the King's Works' volume 4, page 42 (see figure 2). It shows an inner court with gatehouse, kitchen and hall, and many other rooms. On one side is the "well-house court" containing a well, and on another the "base court", surrounded by stables and presumably lodgings.
Other plans have survived, and have been used to provide descriptions of the castle, e.g. Victoria County History Volume 3, page 270. These are misleading, however, as they were plans for unexecuted building schemes, not of what existed.
In the 16th century, the antiquary Leland described the castle as "standing stately on a hill with foure or five faire Towers of stone in the Inner Warde, beside the Basse Court."
The decay of the castle was recorded in 1605 ("the stately place where the old ruines do remaine") and 1649 ("the ancient Capital Messuage house…is totally demolished").
Sources: 'The History of the King's Works volume 4, 40-47; Mary S.F. George, "The Builder of Ampthill Castle", Beds Mag 5, 1956, 185-189.

Description: Ampthill Castle is marked by Katherine's Cross, erected in the 1770's. The site can still be identified on the ground as a raised rectangular platform, with Katherine's Cross located towards the north-east corner. The earthworks were surveyed in October 1987 (see figure 1).
The north slope of the platform is separated by a narrow berm from the top of the natural escarpment to the north. The most substantial part of the platform is the north-west corner where the interior is raised more than 1 metre above the natural ground level. The east and part of the south slopes also survive, but are less pronounced. The south-west corner of the platform has been cut away sometime in the past, and no measurable slopes are visible. However, a close contour survey in this area demonstrates a slight ridge continuing the line of the south edge of the platform. Internal changes in ground level probably originate from disturbances associated with the erection of Katherine's Cross.
South of the platform there are no definable earthworks, but the ground surface is somewhat irregular in character, consistent with the former presence of buildings or yards. To the east, the land has been levelled for the rugby ground (and the World War II camp).
The building survey of c.1567 was annotated with a scale which is shown on the published transcription. Comparison of the earthworks survey and the building plan at the same scale produces a reasonable match in outline, but would place the north boundary of the well-house court a considerable way down the steep natural slope. Reducing the scale of the building survey by about 19% produces a very good match, with the boundaries of the platform exactly coinciding with the building ranges (see figure 2). It is significant that the most substantial part of the earthwork falls in the area of the hall (and therefore the main living quarters) which would have been the best-appointed part of the mansion. This alteration to the scale of the plan also allows room for the well-house court to be fitting in on the top of the scarp slope.
The buildings round the base court (stable, etc) do not on the whole appear as earthworks, although an east/west slope roughly corresponds to its northern end. The building plan indicates that the base court buildings continue further south, but their exact extent was not shown. It is reasonable to assume that the area of courts and buildings immediately associated with the mansion extended as far south as the natural slope north of the car park/cricket ground fence. A slight break in this slope, now used by the modern footpath, may coincide with the original access to the outer court from the Woburn road, traces of which are shown on the Enclosure Award Map for Ampthill of 1808.

Assessment & management recommendations: the importance of Ampthill Castle falls under several headings. While it was built late in the medieval period, and is therefore in a different category from true castle sites of earlier dates, it has the advantage of being well-documented, with a surviving plan and descriptions which can be closely related to the physical evidence on the ground. There are significant historical associations, particularly the connection with Henry VIII and Katherine of Aragon, and the use of the mansion as a royal residence. These factors are enhanced by the relationship of the site to a largely intact capability Brown landscape, and the listed Katherine's Cross. Taken as a whole, all these factors point to the need for the site to be considered for scheduling as an ancient monument.
The present condition is good, apart from a recent machine scar across the south-east corner of the main platform. The scatter of tile and other occupation debris indicates that levels contemporary with the castle have been cut into. The ground disturbance triggered by the infamous "golden hare" hunt of several years ago does not seem to have continued.
The ideal management of the archaeological features is maintenance of the grass cover, and removal of any scrub which may develop. Any new trees would cause root disturbance to buried levels. Tree-planting should therefore be avoided within the area of the visible earthworks, and as far south as the scarp slope north of the car park, which probably marks the south limit of the outer court and outbuildings. The top of this scarp has however been planted in the past, and these trees can be replaced if necessary.
The management of the castle site also has implications for the maintenance of the parkland and the care of Katherine's Cross. The Cross itself stands as a very prominent feature in the park, and its setting would be devalued by the introduction of new trees nearby. Weather erosion would be best dealt with by the replacement of former trees on the south and south-west edges of the area of interest, i.e. along the scarp slope as mentioned above.
The matter of tree-planting raises general questions concerning the Park design, and the value of perpetuating Capability Brown's original concept. This falls beyond the scope of this report, but it would be worthwhile to give consideration to the need for a fuller historical and field survey of the whole park, and a comprehensive management plan for future maintenance and planting.

<21> Angela Simco, Comments (Observations and Comments). SBD10509.

Glazed tile found in disturbed area (i.e. SE corner of platform, cut by rugby pitch), could be 15th century.

<22> Martin Oake, Site Visit Notes, 18/11/1992 (Notes from site visit). SBD12717.

Site visit to consider management in light of recent confirmed scheduling of site, and view of somewhat chequered history of Town Counci's involvement in managing role.
Agreed that basically the site was stable and not really threatened. A small area of erosion occurred in SE corner of inner court earthwork, less than 1m x 1m and perhaps 30cm deep, being eroded back, looks fairly fresh. English Heritage to suggest to Town Council that this could be repaired.
Site seems to be grazed by cattle, though not intensively and not causing poaching or other damage.
Minimal mole damage on extreme NW corner of site. Some evidence of rabbits but no sign of major burrowing.
English Heritage to write to Town Council saying current situation ok, no need for major work or action. Scheduled Monument consent required for everything they do.

<23> English Heritage, Notification of Scheduling, or an Affirmation or Revision of Scheduling, 3/7/1992 (Scheduling record). SBD12102.

The monument includes the remains of a 15th century palace, known as Ampthill Castle, which is situated at the top of the north-facing scarp of the Greensand Ridge. The approximate site of the palace is marked by Katherine's Cross, erected in the 1770's to commemorate Katherine of Aragon who lived for a time at the palace. Although there are no upstanding walls, there exists a detailed survey of the palace precinct drawn up in 1567 which enables the plan and extent of the ruins to be ascertained. The main precinct comprised four wings ranged about a rectangular inner court, with a gatehouse on the east wing and kitchens and a great hall on the north. Other chambers were the state rooms and private quarters. The external dimensions of this precinct were about 65m east-west by 55m north-south. Outside the north wing was a smaller court, measuring 60m east-west by 20m north-south, which contained a well-house. To the east and south the palace was surrounded by an outer, or "Base", Court which had a range of buildings at the perimeter which contained stables, workshops and other rooms which housed the ancillary functions of the palace. The outer range of buildings lay about 45m to the east of the east wing of the inner court and, although the full extent of the outer court is not shown, it must have extended for a similar distance to the south. Using the known plan as a guide, the remains of the palace can be traced on the ground. At the crest of the ridge is a rectangular platform, about 0.5m to 1m above the normal ground surface and measuring 70m east-west by 60m north-south, which is the site of the Inner Court. Katherine's Cross is located on this platform. Between the north edge of the platform and the edge of the steeply-sloping natural scarp is a terrace about 15m wide which accommodated the well-house court. The eastern edge of the Base Court ran about 50m to the west of the platform, diagonally across the present Rugby field, and its southern side is considered to lie at the break of slope of the scarp above the car park fence. The route of an original access into the Base Court from Woburn Road is marked by a gully leading up this scarp. This scarp and the steep slope to the west of the palace are likely to have been terraced, both in order to consolidate them and for aesthetic reasons.

The palace was built in the early 1400s by Sir John Cornwall, later Lord Fanhope. He married Elizabeth, sister of Henry IV, and wanted a residence "Meet for his Royal spouse". The palace came into the hands of Henry VIII in 1524 and Katherine of Aragon lived there during the divorce proceedings of 1533. The buildings had already fallen into decay by 1555 and at the time of the 1567 survey its partial demolition was planned. Final demolition took place before 1649. Ampthill Park is a landscape designed by Capability Brown and is a Registered Garden.

Katherine's Cross is excluded from the scheduling but the ground beneath it is included.

<24> Angela Simco, Site visit notes, 7/10/1987 (Notes from site visit). SBD12095.

Survey drawings of the site.

<25> Ampthill & District Archaeological & Local History Society, 2002 & 2003, Resistivity survey of the area believed to be the site of Ampthill Castle in the County of Bedfordshire (Archaeological Report). SBD12913.

Five major features were identified: A large ditch or moat with an entrance in the south. The ditch is at least 15m wide in places. This is where the foundations of the castle were expected to be found, and the buried earthwork certainly seems to suggest a small medieval castle or at least a defended house.
Dark and light lines running roughly east west equally spaced apart are of similar spacing to medieval ridge and furrow. The lines respect the outline of the moat, suggesting they are contemporary with or pre-dated by the moat.
A large rectangle clearly cuts into the ridge and furrow with a slightly obtuse angle in the north corner and a corresponding acute angle in the east. This reflects the shape of plans drawn in 1567, and there is little doubt that this is the site of the court yard manor or palace.
A rectangle probably surrounded by a ditch disturbs the line of the moat, and could possibly suggest a lining to a court yard (e.g. cobbles or gravel).
Another potential courtyard area was identified with indications of a large ditch surrounding it.

<26> H M Colvin ... [et al], 1982, The history of the King's Works, volume 4 : 1485-1660 (Part 2), The King's Houses 1485-1660: Ampthill; pp. 40-47 (Bibliographic reference). SBD13272.

The manor of Ampthill came into the hands of Henry VIII in 1524, apparently by purchase. It was an attractive acquisition for it included a well-wooded park and a fine castle, 'standing stely on a hille'. This castle, as Leland tells us, had been built by Lord Fanhope, 'a man of great renowne in the reigns of Henry the V and Henry the syxte,…out of such spoiles as it is said that he wanne in Fraunce'. Fanhope had married Henry IV's sister Elizabeth, widow of John, Duke of Exeter, and Leland conjectured that this royal marriage might have been 'a great cause of the sumptuous building there'.
According to Leland, Fanhope's castle contained '4 or 5 faire towers of stone in the inner warde, beside the basse-courte'. Nothing now remains of it, but an Elizabethan plan among the Cecil Papers at Hatfield House has recently been identified as a survey of Ampthill. The orientation is uncertain, for none is indicated on the original drawing. The principal buildings, including hall and kitchen, formed on (probably the north) side of a spacious rectangular court entered through a large gatehouse. Several stair-turrets projecting from the walls of the courtyard at irregular intervals may be identical with the 'daire towers of stone' noted by Leland, but by the reign of Elizabeth the building evidently had the character of a large manor-house rather than of fortified castle. Some large bay windows are indicated in the private apartments at the upper end of the hall, and windows are indicated in the private apartments at the upper end of the hall, and capacious 'jakes-houses' project form the outer walls. In an inner courtyard behind the kitchen there is a well protected by a well-house. Outside the gate there is an irregular outer courtyard defined by a long range of lodgings and stables.
From 1524 onwards Henry VIII was a frequent visitor to Ampthill, where he rejoiced in 'marvellous good health and cleanness of air'. In 1533 it was at Ampthill that Catherine of Aragon was permitted to live during the divorce proceedings, but Henry resumed his visits in company with Anne Boleyn, and from 1534 onwards the Works accounts contain many references to repairs carried out 'against his maiestie's comyng unto his said mannor'.
In the autumn of 1534 the floors of the king's and queen's chambers were repaired where necessary, and 'divers faults' in the leads over the queen's great chamber and elsewhere in the inner court were mended. Galyon Hone, the king's Chief Glazier, supplied a good deal of new glass for various rooms, including the king's dining chamber (where there was a 'great bay window'), the queen's 'reaying chamber', the queen's closet and the queen's bedchamber. Hone also supplied four of the queen's badges, which were set in the windows of the king's dining chamber, the queen's bedchamber, the queen's 'reaying chamber' and the king's bedchamber. The queen's standing in the Great Park was also repaired and glazed with 19 feet 3 inches of new glass.
In 1536 more glass was bought from Galyon Hone. It included two panes of new glass for the king's presence chamber, one pane fo rhis watching chamber, and two badges of his arms for his bedchamber. The king's and queen's arms and badges were also set in the queen's dining chamber, and some new glass was inserted in the windows of her bedchamber and privy chamber. At the same time tilers were busy ripping and retiling the roofs of the great hall and all the lodgings on the south and east sides of the inner court, while plasterers were repairing broken places on the north and east sides of the base court. The carpenters had two main tasks: one was the conversion of an old barn into lodgings for the Lord Privy Seal (Thomas Cromwell) and the courtier Sir Francis Bryan, who held the post of steward of Ampthill; the other the erection of a new timber-framed kitchen in the 'Wellhouse Court', where labourers had been 'digging and carrying away of the great hills of earth….for that the new kitchen might be set up there.' The carpenters were also felling timber in the park in order to 'make and frame a new hall and parlour and buttery and larder and gallery and a kitchen to be set in the new park for a lodge for the keeper of the said new park'. This 'new park' appears to be identical with the Little Park of later documents, which lay to the south of the road from Ampthill to Woburn. Work on the new lodge continued into the following year, when it was enlarged by adding a parlour to the east side and throwing the original parlour into the hall. At the same time its hall was provided with a great bay window. At the Manor House the principal improvement in 1537 was the construction of a bowling alley for the king. It was defined by turfed banks upon which seven wooden seats were set. At each end there was a boarded area surrounded by railings.
The repairs carried out in 1540 were for the most part unimportant. In the chapel a closet was made 'for the King's Grace to hear Massin.' The plumbers' work included repairing 'all the gutters and tyrretts about the Manor'. Gaylon Hone repaired the glass in the king's presence chamber, the queen's raying chamber, the chamber next the queen's raying chamber, the queen's stool chamber, the Lord Privy Seal's lodgings, Master Comptroller's lodgings, Master Cofferer's lodgings, the king's standing in the Great Park, the Duke of Norfolk's lodgings and the clerk comptroller's lodgings. The arms of the king and queen were set in one of the windows of the queen's presence chamber and a crown was set over the king's badge in the glazing of the queen's privy chamber. Further glass for Dr Chamber's lodgings, Mr Long's chamber, Mr Heneage's chamber and the wardrobe of the beds was supplied by John Otway of Silsoe.
In 1542 Ampthill was formally constituted an 'Honor' by Act of Parliament, and a number of royal estates in Bedfordshire and Buckinghamshire were annexed to it. According to the Act, the king's intention was 'to erecte, buylde and edifie upon his Grace's mannor of Ampthill, in the Countie of Bedford, sumptuous, statelye, beautyfull, and princelye buyldings and edyfices'. There is, however, no evidence that any extensive new works ensued. In August and September 1543 caroenters were engaged, under the supervision of Lawrence Bradsawh, in 'making a new pair of winding stairs going up the king's privy chamber', in making three new standings in the Great Park for the king's grace, and in replacing six rafters in the hall kitchen that had been accidentally burned, but the total expenditure amounted only to some £60.
After Henry VIII's death Ampthill and its appurtenances did not at once cease to be a place of royal resort. Accounts survive for works in the neighbouring park of Brogborough 'for the Kyng's Maiestye to take hys pleasure & pastyme in a hys Gracy's comyng thether in the fyrst & second years of the reainge of out Sovereigne Lord Kynge Edward the vjth'. They included the making of butts, cutting turf for the bowling alley,a nd the purchase of hooks and hinges for the 'banketyng house'. These works were paid for out of local revenues, but the accounts of Lawrence Bradshaw as Surveyor of the Works show that in 1552 he spent £63 3s 3d on unspecified works at Ampthill. This may, however, have been the last time that any repairs were carried out. A survey taken only three years later show that the house was already falling into decay:
The manor house of Ampthill in most part of the inner court is sore decayed in tiling and leading and the battlements of stone sore decayed and most of the glass windows clean gone, and the stone walls mcuh shaken and chiefly the great kitchen and diverse spouts of lead broken and some clean gone.
Item in the outer court there, all the timber of all the roofs of the houses must be new, for some of them are clean fallen down, and the tile broken, and the roof ready to fall.
Item the old barn in the outer court is ready to fall down because the timber work is rotten and part of the tile broken and gone.

According to a survey of the royal houses made soon after the accession of Queen Elizabeth, 'divers' portions of Ampthill had been 'taken down [and the stone glass iron and lead laid up in store'. 'The rest', it was added, 'must be taken down for there is no recovery of it'. Nothing appears to have been done until 1567, when the Works accounts contain 'charges for taking down some parts of the house', while Richard Rowlands and John Vincnets were paid at the high rate of 2s a day for twelve days spent in 'drawing and making a platte of the house'. This 'platte' is almost certainly the drawing, already mentioned, which shows the house much as it was left by Henry VIII. Some of the plan is drawn in full detail but other parts are in outline only and it was these, no doubt, that were being demolished. Attached to the outline portions are two superimposed hinged overlays showing the new buildings proposed at two levels. They comprise a large block of lodgings containing two small courts, to be built on the site of the range forming the right side (seen from the main gate) of the main court. The overlays are L-shaped so that a new building is also shown replacing part of the block opposite the main gate. This contains on the ground floor akitchen and a chapel and on the first floor a new hall to replace the old on ein the range to be demolished. Beyond the hall in the adjoining range are three large rooms which probably form the principal royal apartment. These and the adjoining rooms present to the courtyard an almost perfectly balanced front in the centre of which is an octagon-form tower containing what were probably the privy stairs. It is impossible to say why Ampthill should have been chosen for a project of this rather ambitious kind unless it was to establish a house of access in a part of the country notably less well provided with such amenities then Kent, Surrey or the Thames Valley. The queen had not, so far as we know, visited Ampthill before 1567, though she may have had a sight of the old house when she stayed with Sir Henry Cheney, on progress, in 1564.
Of these proposals nothing more is hear. The old house gradually fell into ruin. Then, in 1605, the idea of rebuilding suddenly revived, this time in the form of a hunting centre for the new king, James I. The Earl of Dorset, as Lord Treasurer, took the matter up with great enery and the letter he wrote to the officers of the Works gives a remarkable picture of the initiation, at the highest level, of a work of this kind. …. [gives much details of the plans, and various other versions offered up]
In 1607, having acquired Theobalds, James I had no need to look elsewhere for a place which would 'serve for the enjoying of his pleasures of hunting and hawking.' So Ampthill was abandoned; and when, in November 1649, the parliamentary surveyors made their report on the Great Park they stated that 'the ancient Cappitall Messuage house that was in the said park is totally demolished.'

<27> Ordnance Survey, Ordnance Survey 25" Map, 1st Edition, 1881 (Map). SBD10619.

'Katherine's Cross on site of Ampthill castle'

<28> Bedfordshire & Luton Archives and Records Service Documents, MA95/2, Enclosure Map, 1808 (Unpublished document). SBD10551.

Map of 1808

<29> Unspecified publication (Newspaper Article). SBD10582.

Articles from various newspapers concerning the digging up of the 'golden hare' as featured in the 'Masquerade' book.

<30> Bedfordshire County Council, Planning Dept File, 2008 (Unpublished document). SBD11426.

Project proposal for a detailed study of Ampthill Castle to promote the site & its history.

<31> Bedfordshire County Council, Planning Dept File (Unpublished document). SBD11426.

SMC for proposed new railings - subsequently withdrawn.

<34> Council for British Archaeology, 2010, South Midlands Archaeology, Volume 40, Vol. 40, 2010, p.6 (Serial). SBD14153.

Details as per Ref. (33).

<35> NMR/AMIE, HE NRHE Monument Inventory, 360027 (Index). SBD12367.

Ampthill Castle, of which there are no standing remains, was built in the 1420's by Sir John Cornwall, spouse of Elizabeth, sister of Henry IV. The castle came into the hands of Henry VIII in 1524 and Katherine of Aragon lived there during the divorce proceedings of 1533. By Elizabeth I's accession the buildings had already fallen into decay and at the time of the 1567 survey its partial demolition was planned. In 1605, the idea of rebuilding was revived and plans were made to convert the buildings to a hunting lodge for James I, however nothing came of them. In a Parliamentary report of 1649 it was recorded that the buildings were by then totally demolished. In 1771-2 the second Earl of Upper Ossory employed Lancelot Brown to landscape Ampthill Park.

The approximate site of the palace is marked by Katherine's Cross, erected in the 1770s to commemorate Katherine of Aragon who lived for a time at the palace. Although there are no upstanding walls, there exists a detailed survey of the palace precinct drawn up in 1534 which enables the plan and extent of the ruins to be ascertained. The main precinct comprised four wings ranged about a rectangular inner court, with a gatehouse on the east wing and kitchens and a great hall on the north. Other chambers were the state rooms and private quarters. The external dimensions of this precinct were about 65m east-west by 55m north-south. Outside the north wing was a smaller court, which contained a well-

<36> Northamptonshire Archaeology, 2009, Ampthill Castle Community Archaeology Project, Ampthill Park, Woburn Road, Ampthill., Report 11/85; p. 7 (Archaeological Report). SBD12914.

Four specific periods of activity were identified: Early-middle Saxon (Trench 1); Medieval/late medieval; Late medieval palatial residence and Great War or Second World War activity.
The medieval and late medieval activity occurred within Trenches 2 & 3 & 4. General activity in Trench 3 was evidenced by a large flat bottomed pit containing accumulated thin layers, and a pit containing dumped hearth debris including charred cereal grains and pulses. All were sealed by layers of late medieval date. A linear ditch was present in Trench 4.
Evidence for the palatial residence occurred within Trench 2 and comprised stone wall foundations, heavily robbed, and the base of a brick chimney hearth. This was possibly part of the ancillary Base Court wing shown on the plan of 1567.

<37> NMR/AMIE, HE NRHE Monument Inventory, 360027 (Index). SBD12367.

Ampthill Castle, of which there are no standing remains, was built in the 1420s by Sir John Cornwall, spouse of Elizabeth, sister of Henry IV. The castle came into the hands of Henry VIII in 1524 and Katherine of Aragon lived there during the divorce proceedings of 1533. By Elizabeth I's accession the buildings had already fallen into decay and at the time of the 1567 survey its partial demolition was planned. In 1605, the idea of rebuilding was revived and plans were made to convert the buildings to a hunting lodge for James I, however nothing came of them. In a Parliamentary report of 1649 it was recorded that the buildings were by then totally demolished. In 1771-2 the second Earl of Upper Ossory employed Lancelot Brown to landscape Ampthill Park. The approximate site of the palace is marked by Katherine's Cross, erected in the 1770s to commemorate Katherine of Aragon who lived for a time at the palace. Although there are no upstanding walls, there exists a detailed survey of the palace precinct drawn up in 1534 which enables the plan and extent of the ruins to be ascertained. The main precinct comprised four wings ranged about a rectangular inner court, with a gatehouse on the east wing and kitchens and a great hall on the north. Other chambers were the state rooms and private quarters. The external dimensions of this precinct were about 65m east-west by 55m north-south. Outside the north wing was a smaller court, which contained a well-house. To the east and south the palace was surrounded by an outer, or 'Base', Court which had a range of buildings at the perimeter which contained stables, workshops and other rooms which housed the ancillary functions of the palace.

<38> David J Cathcart King, 1983, Castellarium anglicanum : an index and bibliography of the castles in England, Wales and the islands. Volume I : Anglesey - Montgomery, p. 7 (Bibliographic reference). SBD13193.

The castle was built in the early 15th century, quadrangular in form with several courts with square and octagonal towers. It was demolished before 1649.

<39> English Heritage, Notification of Scheduling, or an Affirmation or Revision of Scheduling, Scheduled 03-JUL-1992 (Scheduling record). SBD12102.

Ampthill Castle, of which there are no standing remains, was built in the early 1400s by Sir John Cornwall, later Lord Fanhope. He married Elizabeth, sister of Henry IV. The palace came into the hands of Henry VIII in 1524 and Katherine of Aragon lived there during the divorce proceedings of 1533. The buildings had already fallen into decay by 1555 and at the time of the 1567 survey its partial demolition was planned. Final demolition took place before 1649. Ampthill Park is a landscape designed by Capability Brown and is a Registered Garden.

The approximate site of the palace is marked by Katherine's Cross, erected in the 1770s to commemorate Katherine of Aragon who lived for a time at the palace. Although there are no upstanding walls, there exists a detailed survey of the palace precinct drawn up in 1534 which enables the plan and extent of the ruins to be ascertained. The main precinct comprised four wings ranged about a rectangular inner court, with a gatehouse on the east wing and kitchens and a great hall on the north. Other chambers were the state rooms and private quarters. The external dimensions of this precinct were about 65m east-west by 55m north-south. Outside the north wing was a smaller court, measuring 60m east-west by 20m north-south, which contained a well-house. To the east and south the palace was surrounded by an outer, or 'Base', Court which had a range of buildings at the perimeter which contained stables, workshops and other rooms which housed the ancillary functions of the palace. The outer range of buildings lay about 45m to the east of the east wing of the inner court and, although the full extent of the outer court is not shown, it must have extended for a similar distance to the south.

<40> Websites (various) - No longer accessible, http://www.oxforddnb.com/view/article/54443/?back=,54423,54443,54423 (Website). SBD13231.

Elizabeth of Lancaster, Henry IV's sister married Sir John Cornewall in the summer of the year 1400. Some time prior to 1424 he bought an estate in Bedfordshire and began construction of Ampthill Castle. The castle was completed by 1429 and in 1432 he acquired the title Lord Fanhope. Goodman, Anthony. 2004. Elizabeth of Lancaster (1364?-1425), Oxford University Press

<41> English Heritage, Register of Parks and Gardens of Special Historic Interest (Index). SBD11177.

In 1771-2 the second Earl of Upper Ossory employed Lancelot Brown to landscape Ampthill Park which had originally been a deer park. Henry VIII was said to have used Ampthill Great Park and Ampthill Little Park on his frequent visits to the castle.

<42> Albion Archaeology, 2019, Ampthill Great Park; A Community-Led Scheme of Archaeological Investigation, Recording, Analysis and Publication, p. 20; Trench 3 (Archaeological Report). SBD13417.

The finds assemblage from Trench 2 included late medieval CBM (1.317Kg), which is unsurprising given the trench location near the site of Ampthill Castle, mortar (90g), vessel glass (58g) and modern pottery, including willow pattern (21g).

<43> John Britton & Edward Wedlake Brayley, 1801, The Beauties of England and Wales, Volume 1, Bedfordshire, Berkshire, Buckinghamshire, pp. 64-5, https://archive.org/details/beautiesofenglan01brit/page/64/mode/2up (Bibliographic reference). SBD10810.

"West of the town is Ampthill Park, the seat of the Earl of Upper Ossory. In the old castle, which stood on much higher ground than the present mansion, and then belonged to Henry the Eighth, Queen Catherine resided during the time her unjust divorce was in agitation before the commissioners at Dunstable. She had been cited to appear in court, to defend her cause; but, on refusing to do so, the sentence of separation was pronounced.
In reference to this circumstance, a neat octagonal cross, designed by Mr. Essex, with a shield bearing her arms, has been erected on the site of the castle by the Earl of Ossory.
"The castle and town of Ampthill, and divers fair lordships thereabout,” says Leland, “ belonged to Lord Fanhope, a man of great fame, and very rich, who built this stately castle as it now standeth, with the spoils he won in the wars in France.” This was in the reign of Henry the Sixth.
Sir John Cornwall, afterwards Lord Fanhope, married Elizabeth, Countess Dowager of Huntingdon, sister to Henry the Fourth, whose son, when Prince of Wales, gave him large possessions in Cornwall. He distinguished himself by his gallant behaviour at the battle of Agincourt, and was created Lord Fanhope, and Baron Melbrooke, by King Henry the Sixth. On the death of his son, who was killed at a siege in France, he retired to this seat, where he died in the year 1443. His successor
(Footnote - The accounts of Camden and Leland are incorrect. By them it appears, that John Cornwall, Lord Fanhope, who built the house, was the person dispossessed by Edward the Fourth: but this is impossible; for the first Lord Fanhope died in the twenty-second of Henry the Sixth; some years before the war of the Rival Houses began.)
was attainted of treason for siding with the house of Lancaster; and this estate granted, by Edward the Fourth, to Edmund Grey, Lord of Ruthin, and afterwards Earl of Kent. His grandson, Richard, made it over to Henry the Seventh. From him it descended to his son, who, in the thirty-third year of his reign, constituted it a Royal Demesne, and named the annexed estate the Honour of Ampthill."

<44> Council for British Archaeology, 2019, South Midlands Archaeology, Volume 49, pp.15-16; 'Ampthill Great Park Community Excavation' (Serial). SBD14168.

Details as per Ref. (42).

Protected Status:

• Archaeological Notification Area (AI) HER810: Ampthill Castle (site of)
• Conservation Area: Ampthill Conservation Area
• Scheduled Monument 1009630: Ampthill Castle: A medieval magnate's residence
• SHINE: Ampthill Park landscape park and Ampthill Castle

Monument Type(s):

• DITCH (Medieval - 1066 AD to 1539 AD)
• GARDEN FEATURE (Medieval - 1066 AD to 1539 AD)
• PIT (Medieval - 1066 AD to 1539 AD)
• WALL (Medieval - 1066 AD to 1539 AD)
• CASTLE (15th Century - 1400 AD to 1499 AD)

Associated Finds

• FBD15322 - MARINE MOLLUSCA REMAINS (Unknown date)
• FBD15321 - OYSTER SHELL (Unknown date)
• FBD15305 - TILE (Unknown date)
• FBD15287 - WORKED OBJECT (Early Neolithic to Early Bronze Age - 4000 BC to 1501 BC)
• FBD15288 - SHERD (Middle Iron Age - 400 BC to 101 BC)
• FBD15289 - SHERD (Roman/Romano-British - 43 AD to 409 AD)
• FBD15323 - PLANT MACRO REMAINS (Saxon to Medieval - 410 AD to 1539 AD)
• FBD15318 - ANIMAL REMAINS (Medieval - 1066 AD to 1539 AD)
• FBD15291 - ARROWHEAD (Medieval - 1066 AD to 1539 AD)
• FBD15293 - CROTAL (Medieval - 1066 AD to 1539 AD)
• FBD15306 - DRESSED STONE (Medieval to Post Medieval - 1066 AD to 1900 AD)
• FBD15304 - FLOOR TILE (Medieval - 1066 AD to 1539 AD)
• FBD15297 - HORSESHOE (Medieval - 1066 AD to 1539 AD)
• FBD15299 - NAIL (Medieval - 1066 AD to 1539 AD)
• FBD15301 - PEG TILE (Medieval - 1066 AD to 1539 AD)
• FBD15292 - PENDANT (Medieval - 1066 AD to 1539 AD)
• FBD15302 - RIDGE TILE (Medieval - 1066 AD to 1539 AD)
• FBD15307 - ROOF TILE (Medieval to Post Medieval - 1066 AD to 1900 AD)
• FBD16632 - ROOF TILE (Medieval to Post Medieval - 1066 AD to 1900 AD)
• FBD15309 - SHOT (Medieval to Post Medieval - 1066 AD to 1900 AD)
• FBD15296 - SNAFFLE BIT (Medieval - 1066 AD to 1539 AD)
• FBD15294 - BUCKLE (12th Century to 14th Century - 1100 AD to 1399 AD)
• FBD15300 - SHERD (13th Century - 1200 AD to 1299 AD)
• FBD15298 - SHOEING NAIL (13th Century - 1200 AD to 1299 AD)
• FBD15303 - BRICK (15th Century to 17th Century - 1400 AD to 1699 AD)
• FBD15295 - RING (15th Century - 1400 AD to 1499 AD)
• FBD15319 - ANIMAL REMAINS (Tudor to Stuart - 1485 AD to 1714 AD)
• FBD15324 - PLANT MACRO REMAINS (Tudor to Stuart - 1485 AD to 1714 AD)
• FBD15308 - JETTON (16th Century to 17th Century - 1500 AD to 1699 AD)
• FBD15310 - SLAG (17th Century - 1600 AD to 1699 AD)
• FBD15316 - CLAY PIPE (SMOKING) (19th Century to 20th Century - 1800 AD to 1999 AD)
• FBD15315 - SHERD (19th Century - 1800 AD to 1899 AD)
• FBD15312 - SHERD (19th Century to 20th Century - 1800 AD to 1999 AD)
• FBD15314 - BUTTON (Victorian to First World War - 1896 AD to 1918 AD)
• FBD15311 - SLAG (20th Century - 1900 AD to 1999 AD)
• FBD15320 - ANIMAL REMAINS (First World War to Second World War - 1914 AD to 1945 AD)
• FBD15313 - BULLET (First World War - 1914 AD to 1918 AD)
• FBD15325 - PLANT MACRO REMAINS (First World War to Second World War - 1914 AD to 1945 AD)

Associated Events

• EBD594 - Resistivity survey of the area believed to be the site of Ampthill Castle in the County of Bedfordshire
• EBD1567 - Ampthill Castle Community Archaeology Project, Ampthill Park, Woburn Road, Ampthill; Updated Project Design (Ref: 09/106)
• EBD1670 - First Pseudo Sections through selected Area's Of The Ampthill Castle Site Using a TR/CIA Resistivity Meter
• EBD1671 - Ampthill Castle Community Archaeology Project, Ampthill Park, Woburn Road, Ampthill. (Ref: 11/135)
• EBD1969 - Ampthill Great Park; A Community-Led Scheme of Archaeological Investigation, Recording, Analysis and Publication (Ref: 2019/60)
• EBD1672 - Geophysical Survey Results from Ampthill & District Archaeological & Local History Society

Sources and Further Reading

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