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Summary

On and around the Garrison Hill above Scilly's main settlement, Hugh Town, are fortifications of the C16 to C20.

Protected Status: None recorded

Other References/Statuses

• National Monuments Record: SV 81 SE 30
• National Record of the Historic Environment to Historic Environment Records data transfer
• National Record of the Historic Environment: 303589
• OS No. (OS Quarter-sheet and OS No.): SV81SE 30
• Primary Record No. (1985-2009): 7900
• Primary Record No. (1985-2009): 7901
• Primary Record No. (1985-2009): 7903
• Primary Record No. (1985-2009): 7905
• Primary Record No. (1985-2009): 7907
• Primary Record No. (1985-2009): 7908
• Primary Record No. (1985-2009): 7909
• SMR No. (OS Quarter-sheet and SMR No.): SV81SE 4

Monument Type(s):

• FORTIFICATION (Post Medieval - 1540 AD to 1900 AD)

Full description

The Garrison, a heavily defended headland, originally known as The Hugh, provides visible evidence of the main episodes in Scilly's military history from the late-16th to the mid-20th century. In 1990 the early coastal defences of the garrison were surveyed and recorded in detail (3). In 2005 (as well as between 2008-10) the defences of the garrison were surveyed, and a conservation plan written (22). Evaluation trenches and other work was undertaken on the basis of its recommendations (23, 24, 25). This work culminated in a detailed discussion of the Defences of Scilly being published (26). See also (28, 29, 30, 31, 34).

The fortification of the headland began in the 1590s, following the 1588 Spanish Armada, when it was decided that the existing fortifications on Scilly (King Charles’ Castle, Tresco, and Harry’s Walls, St Mary’s) were inadequate to defend Scilly against threat of Spanish invasion (planned in 1574) and privateers (1). Whilst the defence of the islands was a condition of Francis Godolphin’s 1571 lease, it was the Crown which ordered and paid for an artillery fort on the Hugh. The 1593-1594 fort, Star Castle (7902), and a curtain wall with a gateway, sallyports and batteries crossing the Garrison neck (7906.15) along the west side of Porthcressa shifted the focus of Scilly's defence to the Hugh, and the focus of St Mary's settlement to its neck (2). Associated Elizabethan military structures are the guardhouse (7901.01), barracks (7901.03) and prison (7901.04) nearby; and windmills (7901.05, 7901.06) on the summit. A quarry near the south end of the neck may be of this period (7901.07). The establishment of the Garrison led to the development of trackways, field system and garden (7900.08-7900.12).

In 1593 as Star Castle neared completion on the north shoulder of the hill, Sir Francis Godolphin urged that "...many works should be speedily performed, as three blockhouses, four platforms...and a trench and bank to compass the hill near the sea..." (2). However, a 1637 survey of Scilly suggests that the early coastal works, which consist of a breastwork with redans and batteries (3), were established during the Civil War: "[…]the only strength that doth serve it at this present is a small castle[...] there are several batterie placed at the foot of the hill beneath the castle[...] but their platforms are not defended with any strength or works" (4). The Garrison was a Cavalier refuge in 1646 and became the last Royalist stronghold in 1651 (1). In May 1651 there were "[…]800 men, besides an immense number of officers in the garrison" (5). A 1652 survey records buildings servicing the Garrison, both on the Hugh (7903.01-7903.10) and elsewhere on St Mary's (6); many of the fortifications of this period are shown on the 1655 map (7).

Between 1715 and 1750, major refortification against the threat from Spain (1) greatly enhanced the military potential and visibility of the Hugh's defences and associated works, reflected in the change of place name to the Garrison. In this period, the earlier earthwork defences were superseded mid-C18 by a stone curtain and batteries, except on the north west side. After a period of neglect following the Dutch wars, the fortifications were surveyed by Colonel Christian Lilly in 1715, and subsequently improved under Master Gunner Abraham Tovey (2). A number of maps and plans date to this period, illustrating the new or rebuilt lines, structures and roads, in progress or proposed - some elements differing from those built (8, 9, 10, 11).

Borlase (21), Heath (12) and Troutbeck (13), writing in the mid and late C18 respectively, give accounts of the fortifications and some buildings, as well as adding details of the Garrison's organisation. The commanding officer could have cattle grazed and turf cut on the hill, as well as the use of a garden. They also controlled the movement of stone from its surface or quarries. Some soldiers lived in the Garrison barracks, whilst others were quartered in cottages "outside".
There was much military activity in Scilly during the French Wars (1793-1815), the islands suffering from French privateers and perceived as vulnerable to French attack. Spry's 1800 account (14) refers disparagingly to the "the great soldiery kept up in all the islands", with a garrison of 500. Signal posts on Chapel Down, St Martins, from 1804-1815, and Newford Down, St Mary's, 1815-1816, communicated with ships but not to the mainland, signalling from Land's End to Kent (15). On the Garrison, the Elizabethan and C18 batteries (7906) with a few exceptions (7906.14, 7906.28, 7906.29) were armed; King Charles' (7906.02), with the C17 Steval Battery (7904.19), having traversing guns to cover the north-west coast (13). Conversion of the two old windmills to Martello towers was suggested but rejected by the War Department (15). A plan of the defences was created in 1834 (27).

In 1863 the Garrison was disbanded, only one 'caretaker' being retained (2), however, there had been a considerable reduction in activity through the early 19th century. Wellford Barracks and gardens along the north coast were provided for invalid gunners who maintained the batteries after Waterloo (16). Only seven or eight soldiers resided on the Garrison in 1822, and proposals of c. 1810 for a permanent naval depot were dropped. Star Castle and the allee couverte were neglected; guns were dismounted and left exposed (5). By the mid-C19, military buildings were rented to Coastguard and civilians, and the Lord Proprietor, Augustus Smith, introduced deer and park features (2), and the Garrison walls were increasingly valued as a scenic tour for visiting gentry (16, 17).
The Elizabethan barracks, Gatehouse Cottage, was a hospital and guardroom in the mid-C19 (2); military parades shifted from the Garrison to Hugh Town (18). Earlier C19 structures south of Star Castle may have been agricultural. A wind speed gauge erected on the hill may have had a military function. Veronica Lodge and Hugh House were erected in the 1790s as the commanding officer's house and officers' mess respectively (18).

In the 1880s and 1890s, Navy and Army committees considered re-fortification of the "virtually undefended" islands of Scilly (32). They were defended as an ideal signalling and refuelling base - covering two entrances to the English Channel and the Irish Sea. Steval battery (7908.04) and the well preserved Woolpack battery (7908.06) were completed 1898-1901 with 4-inch Mark VII BL guns. Steval Point battery (7908.01) and another (never armed) at Bants Carn on St Mary's (7488) were added by 1906 for 12-pdr QF guns to counter torpedo boats. Associated with the Garrison batteries were Defence Electric Lights (DELs) west of Steval Point (7908.02) and re-using sites of earlier fortifications at Steval Point (7908.03), south of Woolpack battery (7908.08). A barracks (7908.05) and an artificer's shop (7908.09) were built on the Garrison summit. Other military buildings stood west of Woolpack quarry (7908.10) and in C18 batteries at Bartholomew battery (7908.11), Colonel George Boscawen's battery (7908.13), and south of Steval battery (7908.14). A well east of Bartholomew battery is probably related to these works (7908.12). All are recorded on the 1907 OS map (33). Following peace with France, the RN base in the islands closed and all guns were removed in 1906 (32).

The Garrison saw limited activity in both world wars but no new defences were created. Key sources are Osborne's two collections of diaries, reminiscences, photos and maps (19, 20). In the First World War the White House (7905.05) was the naval headquarters on the islands and housed a telephone system. Some army officers lived in Star Castle (7902) and a sentry patrolled between here and the castle gate (7906.05), a guardroom being situated in Gatehouse Cottage (7901.02) (b2). The Guardhouse (7901.01), north of the gateway, was the Navy victualling department (b1). The cricket field was used for a time as the kite observation balloon base (7909.01) before this moved to Holy Vale (b2). In the Second World War both Star Castle (7902) and Garrison House (7905.06) housed soldiers. There were plans, at least, for a messenger pigeon loft in Star Castle or the old Lloyds signal station (7901.05) and the 1900s Woolpack fort (7908.06) housed a homing device (radar) used by anti-submarine aircraft based in southern England. Five pillboxes were built (7904.04 - 7904.08). Aviation spirit threatened by 1940 bombing raids was moved from Hugh Town pier to the two 1900s forts (7908.04 and 7908.06) and barbed wire entanglements were erected at various parts of the Hugh (7909.02). Firebreaks were also cut (7909.03) (b3). A soldier engaged in heliographic signalling to Tresco was fired on by a Luftwaffe aeroplane and took cover between the gables (2).

[Note these individual phases of the Garrison were previously recorded as a series of separate records: MCO31563 (PRN 7900); MCO31568 (PRN 7901); MCO31569 (PRN 7903); MCO31573 (PRN 7905); MCO31574 (PRN 7907); MCO31576 (PRN 7908); and MCO31577 (PRN 7909). The information has been consolidated into a single record.]

Thomas, AC, 1989, The names of the batteries on the Garrison, St Mary's Isles of Scilly (Article in monograph). SCO5161.

<1> Bowley, RL (Ed), 1980, The Fortunate Islands, 45-48, 55-57, 64 (Bibliographic reference). SCO5086.

<2> Adams, F & P, 1984, Star Castle and its Garrison (Bibliographic reference). SCO2717.

<3> Parkes, C, 1990, Fieldwork in Scilly: March 1990 (Cornwall Event Report). SCO1727.

<4> Saunders, A, 1989, Fortress Britain, 79-80 (Bibliographic reference). SCO4317.

<5> Woodley, G, 1822, A View of the Present State of the Scilly Islands, 11, 43, 99, 222-226 (Bibliographic reference). SCO5069.

<6> Pounds, NJG, 1984, The Parliamentary Survey of the Duchy of Cornwall, Pt. 2, 37 (Bibliographic reference). SCO4153.

<7> UNKNOWN, 1655, A MAP OF THE HEW HILL THE CHEIFFE FFORTIFICATIONS (Unedited Source). SCO5445.

<8> LILLY, C, 1715, REPORTS ON THE PRESENT STATE AND CONDITION OF HIS MAJESTIES FORTIFICATION (Unedited Source). SCO5505.

<9> Tovey, A, 1750, A Plan of the Peninsula and Fortifications on St Mary's (Bibliographic reference). SCO4950.

<10> UNKNOWN, 1742, A PLAN OF HUGH FORT ALIAS THE STAR CASTLE (Unedited Source). SCO5544.

<11> UNKNOWN, 1746, A PLAN OF THE HUGH FORT (Unedited Source). SCO5552.

<12> Heath, R, 1750, A Natural and Historical Account of the Islands of Scilly, 55, 70-71 (Bibliographic reference). SCO3486.

<13> Troutbeck, J, 1796, Survey of the Ancient and Present State of the Scilly Islands, 28, 52 (Bibliographic reference). SCO4965.

<14> Thomas, AC, 1977, Three early accounts of the Isles of Scilly, 39 (Article in Journal). SCO8388.

<15> Goodwin, J, 1993, Granite Towers on St Mary's, Isles of Scilly (Article in Journal). SCO3368.

<16> North, IW, 1850, A Week in the Isles of Scilly, 117-119 (Bibliographic reference). SCO4004.

<17> Courtney, LH, 1867, A Week in the Isles of Scilly, 47 (Bibliographic reference). SCO3183.

<18> Field Investigator's Comments, CAU/Parkec, C. 1994. (Survey). SCO29739.

<19> OSBORNE, JP, 1990, SCILLONIAN WAR DIARY, 1914-18 (Unedited Source). SCO8938.

<20> OSBORNE, JP, 1990, SCILLONIAN WAR DIARY, 1939-1945 (Unedited Source). SCO8939.

<21> Borlase, W, 1756, Observations on the Ancient and Present State of the Islands of Scilly, 9-10 (Bibliographic reference). SCO2883.

<22> Johns, C & Fletcher, M, 2010, The Garrison, St Mary's Isles of Scilly - Conservation Plan (Cornwall Event Report). SCO23708.

<23> Brodie, A, 2011, The Garrison, St Mary's Isles of Scilly: The Defences of the Garrison 1500-1945 - survey report (Bibliographic reference). SCO24047.

<24> Fellows, D, 2007, The Garrison, St Mary's, Isles of Scilly - Archaeological Evaluation Report, Project 4792 (Report 69/2007) (Cornwall Event Report). SCO780.

<25> Fletcher, M & Brodie, A & Fellows, D & Andrews, D &Pearson, T & Lyons, E & , 2007, The St Mary's Garrison Project - New Discoveries and Interpretations (EH Research News No 6, 2007 p20-23) (Article in Serial). SCO788.

<26> Bowden, M and Brodie, A, 2011, Defending Scilly (Bibliographic reference). SCO29932.

<27> Unknown, 1834, Map of the Fortifications (Cartographic materials). SCO30376.

<28> Colvin, HM et al., 1982, The History of the King's Works, Volume 4 : 1485-1660 (Part 2), 592-593 (Bibliographic reference). SCO29948.

<29> O'Neil, BH St J, 1949, Ancient Monuments of the Isles of Scilly (Bibliographic reference). SCO7430.

<31> Carpenter, AC, 1984, The Cannon of Pendennis and St. Mawes Castles, Cornwall, 62-64 (Bibliographic reference). SCO5087.

<32> STEVENSON, IV, 1989, SOME WEST COUNTRY DEFENCES, Vol. 17, 17-23 (Unedited Source). SCO8918.

<33> Ordnance Survey, 1900s, 2nd Edition 1:2500 Map (Cartographic materials). SCO4050.

<34> ENGLISH HERITAGE, 2004, Heritage Unlocked: Guide to free sites in Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly, 66-69 (Booklet). SCO29764.

Sources / Further Reading

Associated Finds: none recorded

Associated Events

• ECO3363 - The Garrison, St Marys: Survey, 2006-2011 (Ref: 39-2011)
• ECO2168 - The Garrison, St Marys: Evaluation, 2007 (Ref: Report 69/2007)
• ECO1164 - Gunners Well, The Garrison, St Marys: Watching Brief, 2005 (Ref: Report 2005/01)
• ECO3819 - Isles of Scilly Military Defences, 1540-1951 (Ref: RDRS 56-2011)
• ECO6309 - The Garrison, St. Mary's: Survey
• ECO3128 - Garrison Walls, Isles of Scilly, conservation plan
• ECO3107 - Steval Battery, The Garrison: Watching Brief, 2010 (Ref: 2010046)
• ECO6391 - Tamarisk, The Garrison, St Marys: Excavation, 2017 (Ref: 2017R044)
• ECO4716 - Powder House, The Garrison, St Marys: Watching Brief, 2017 (Ref: 2017R002)

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